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Dieffenbachia at home


Dieffenbachia is a straight-bore tree-like plant with variegated large elongated oval leaves. Plant juice is poisonous. Dieffenbachia in nature can grow up to 3 m, but gradually the lower part of the trunk is exposed and the plant loses its decorative appeal. At home, Dieffenbachia grows on average about 1.5-1.8 m, rarely blooms. In fact, the systematics of Dieffenbach is too complicated, and even a professional will cause difficulty, due to the variability of species, obtaining interspecific hybrids and various varieties. It should also be noted that many types of Dieffenbachia require quite frequent updates - on average after three years, if they are grown in an apartment. Since after this time they usually grow to the ceiling. Then the top of the plant is cut and rooted, and what is left is either thrown away or left for reproduction.

Dieffenbachia is widespread in the southern states of the United States, widely distributed on the tropical Pacific islands (Cook Islands, Micronesia, Hawaii, Fiji, Tahiti, Palau, Samoa, etc.), and in some regions the plant behaves as invasively as a weed.

Types of Dieffenbachia

  • Dieffenbachia Seguin Dieffenbachia seguine - a plant with a thick fleshy, succulent stem and wide lobed leaves. On average, the length of a leaf in an adult is 40-50 cm and about 15 cm wide, somewhat narrowed at the end. Leaf plates have a pronounced venation, about 9-15 lateral veins. In the original species, the leaves are pure green or with a small motley pattern. On the basis of it, many hybrids and varieties were developed that differ in size and shape of the leaf - more elongated lanceolate or wide, as well as the pattern on the leaves (large or small stripes, spots, marbling). Synonyms: Dieffenbachia spotted (painted) Dieffenbachia maculata, Dieffenbachia painted Dieffenbachia picta.
  • Dieffenbachia Bause Dieffenbachia x bausei - with oval yellowish-green leaves about 30-35 cm long. Marble leaf pattern with white dots. The name does not have an official status, some naturalists believe that this is a form of Dieffenbachia Seguin.
  • Dieffenbachia Oersted Dieffenbachia oerstedii - with oval-pointed or elongated-heart-shaped leaves about 30-35 cm long. The leaf is pure green, the central vein stands out, contrasting in color - light green. Sometimes bright spots come across. This species is native to Costa Rica and Guatemala.

Dieffenbachia care

You may be surprised, but sometimes Dieffenbachia grows well at home without any care other than watering. There are cases when strong Dieffenbach trees with good leaves, without spots or chlorosis, grow for many years without transplanting or top dressing. For such unpretentiousness, Dieffenbachia is loved to use in the landscaping of the hotel lobby, recreation of kindergartens and hospitals. But not all grades of Dieffenbachia seguin (painted) are unpretentious in their care - some are quite capricious, require very good lighting and high-quality water for irrigation.


Dieffenbachia is thermophilic, the optimum temperature is 22-24 ° C. In winter, slightly lower - about 18 ° C, at least 16 ° C. At temperatures below 10 ° C, plants rot and die. It does not tolerate drafts. But they grow well in the fresh air - on the balcony or in the garden, if you place the pots in light partial shade and in a place protected from the wind. Of all the species, Dieffenbachia maculata is the most unpretentious to temperature fluctuations.

For questions on growing Dieffenbachia, see our FAQ on plants.

In summer, Dieffenbachia requires a shade, in winter, good lighting. In a too dark place, the leaves become smaller, and the plant loses its decorative appeal. It will grow well under the protection of a tulle curtain near the east or west window. Dieffenbachia varieties with light leaves, white large specks, for example, the Star Bright variety, like very good illumination, with some direct light in the morning or evening. Small plants grow ideally on the east windowsill or northwest. But when the bushes outgrow, do not fit on the windowsill, they have to be placed in the room. And here you need to focus on the behavior of the plant - if the dieffenbachia stem (trunk) grows strictly vertically, everything is in order, there is enough light. The only thing needed is to rotate the pot 180 degrees approximately once a month so that the crown has an even shape.

If the trunk of your Dieffenbachia does not grow strictly vertically, but tilts, even slightly, towards the window - this is a sure sign of a lack of light. In this case, it is not enough to rotate the pot with different sides, you need to arrange additional lighting. Use LED or fluorescent lamps, preferably elongated, ribbons, or ordinary candles or balls, but at different heights.

Medium from spring to late summer. What does this mean - Dieffenbachia, especially large, has a large leaf mass and huge evaporation of water. Those. she needs a lot of moisture. But at the same time, the root system in Dieffenbachia is not too powerful, when compared with other plants, for example, ficuses. With excessive watering, the roots easily rot. Therefore, you need to water a lot, but the soil should dry out no longer than 3 days. If the earth in the pot dries longer, it means that the soil is too moisture-resistant, you must add baking powder (more on this below). In winter, at home, it is usually warm all winter and watering may be no different from summer. If Dieffenbachia is not at home, but, for example, on a heated balcony or conservatory, where it is cooler, watering is significantly reduced. The general rule of watering in spring and summer is that by the next watering the land should dry in the upper third of the pot. In winter, dry out almost completely.

For watering Dieffenbachia, it is advisable to use soft water, like many aroid ones, it does not tolerate chlorine and fluorine in water. Watering with hard water when salinization of the soil occurs, the appearance of a salt crust on the surface of the soil often leads to tissue necrosis - browning of the ends and edges of the leaves.

In the period from May to August, fertilizing with complex fertilizer, every two weeks. From September to February, Dieffenbachia is not fed. With a lack of nutrients, the trunk below is exposed much faster, but this fact is not an indicator of nutritional deficiency - gradual loss of lower leaves is characteristic of dieffenbachia.

Air humidity

Dieffenbachia loves very humid air, but at home it adapts to air humidity of about 35-45%. From May to October, you can not spray, except for the hottest days. But you need to wipe or wash the leaves for hygienic purposes - wash off the dust. But with the start of the heating season, additional care is required: it is necessary to isolate dieffenbachia from the dry hot air of the batteries in any way - rearrange it from the window, or cover the battery with a damp towel, turn on the humidifier. If the pot is on the windowsill, make sure that the leaves of Dieffenbachia do not hang over its edge and that they do not get a direct stream of hot dry air.

How to transplant dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia is transplanted annually in spring - the best time for a transplant is at the end of April. Previously, it was believed that nutrient soil from a mixture of turf (4 parts), leaf (1 part), peat soil (1 part) and sand (1 part), a slightly acidic reaction was believed to be suitable for growing Dieffenbachia. But with the experience of growing it came to understand that Dieffenbachia is best grown in the soil, in composition close to the one on which they grow in nature:

  • light turf land and peat (1: 1),
  • light turf land, peat and vermiculite (1: 1: 1).

That is, the soil for Dieffenbachia must have good water-holding ability and at the same time it is good to pass and quickly evaporate water. Can be planted in universal soil from a store (e.g. Terra Vita). The problem is that all these soils quickly give out all the nutrients to a powerful plant and annual transplantation is a necessity. Many dieffenbachia, especially varietal, grow slowly. All growth is mainly in the spring and early summer. Some are pretty fast, adding 50 cm in height over the year. Therefore, they can be experienced twice, the first time in late February, the second in July.

Due to the fact that these aroid ones grow quite large, the transplantation is difficult, it is difficult to pull out an entire "tree" from a pot or tub. In this case, we can advise you to replace the top layer of the earth - remove as much soil as it can be freely removed without damaging the roots. It would be nice to add some charcoal to the soil. Be sure to put drainage from expanded clay or pieces of foam plastic at the bottom of the pot.

Reproduction of Dieffenbachia

Breeding Dieffenbachia - in the section Popular indoor plants

To increase the collection of tropical beauties, you can trim the trunk by 5-7 cm, which are rooted during soil heating at 30 ° C. This is more convenient to do in February and March, when a bowl with light peat soil (it must be sterilized in the microwave) must be put on the battery. And so that it’s not dark to the roots, send a light bulb (fluorescent with an ordinary base) to the wiring. Rooting occurs within 1.5 months. Pieces of the trunk need to be cut off from healthy shoots that do not decay, sprinkle the slices with crushed charcoal, maintain the soil in a constantly moist, but not wet state, and do not need to cover the bag.

Some species of Dieffenbachia produce daughter shoots that cut and root. There are varieties having a bush form, such as, for example, Dieffenbachia variety Vesuvius, they can be propagated by dividing the bush. But the most common method of propagation is with apical cuttings, it is also used when the trunk is barely exposed from below, and it is necessary to rejuvenate the plant.

The cut off top of the shoot can be rooted in water (with the addition of activated carbon) or in vermiculite. It is important for the stalk to cut off the largest lower leaves in order to reduce the evaporation surface of the stalk. Cuttings root better in spring - at the beginning of summer. Put it in a warm place, not lower than 22 ° C, cover from direct sunlight. Change the water as it gets dirty (once every two days). After the roots grow at least 5 cm, they can be planted. It is advisable that the planting of the rooted does not occur on hot days (no higher than 26 ° C). For the first two weeks, the pot should be placed in a transparent bag, which should not be tied, but simply straightened up. The plant must be watered. Top dressing should be started no earlier than after 1.5 months.

Dieffenbachia is able to improve the chemical composition of the air in the room where they are located, which is especially important in urban apartments.

In order to obtain a particularly large, strong plant during propagation, it is necessary to take not lateral shoots, but to cut off the top from the mother plant and root it.

Growing problems

The brown edges of Dieffenbachia leaves are inadequate when the soil remains dry for a long time at high air temperatures. In other words, from heat and dryness.

Drilling along the edges of the leaves can also occur when the plant has been watered for a long time and plentifully - as a result of the non-assimilation of certain nutrients, for example, potassium.

Some Western flower growers believe that Dieffenbachia does not require conventional fertilizer for indoor decorative leafy plants, which have a large proportion of nitrogen, but fertilizers with an equal NPK of 20-20-20, 16-16-16, or 10-10-10. Typically, this ratio is found in citrus fertilizers. If Dieffenbachia is planted in peat or shop soil, it really needs more complete fertilizer.

Dry, brown leaf tips - due to insufficient air humidity, in the winter during the heating season. Still, Dieffenbachia is a plant in tropical rainforests. It is necessary to increase the moisture around the plant. Also, the cause may be a lack of nutrients in the soil. Remember when you transplanted the plant and to what ground. Another reason is too hard water.

The lower leaves turn yellow and curl - drafts or low temperatures in winter, watering with cold water.

Dieffenbachia leaves die off - too low a temperature, dry air or drafts. The lower old leaves always die over time, exposing the stem.

The loss of color of Dieffenbachia is too intense sunlight.

The base of the stem is soft and acquires a brownish tint - rotting of the stem due to overmoistening of the soil, especially if the temperature is low.

If the decay is large, then cut off and root the top, discard the rest of the plant.

Pests of dieffenbachia

Scale and false scorpions: a common pest on Dieffenbachia, especially those grown in organizations where it is not clear who cares for the plant. The leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, sticky streaks appear on the stems.

If you look closely, on the leaves and petioles you can see small (1-1.5 mm) brown plaques, if you scrape them off or crush them, there remains a wet speck - these are scale insects. They suck out the cellular juice from plants, so it withers, the leaves lose their color, dry and fall off.

Control measures. To begin, wash off pests with a soapy sponge. Then pour the plant with a solution of actara or confidor (systemic insecticides). It can be sprayed with other insecticides: actellik, karbofos, spark, mospilan, etc.

A spider mite is also a common pest of domestic plants at any time of the year. The leaves turn pale, the main shade becomes light green, the young leaves are twisted, small, over time, a spider web appears on the stems in the internodes, the leaves turn yellow and dry out.

Control measures. Rinse leaves with green soap. Then carefully spray the plant (leaves on both sides) with drugs from the acaricidal group.

Mealybugs: they look like white cotton buds, hide in the axils of leaves, flabbily languidly, but do very much harm - they suck out plant juice. The leaves bend, dry and fall, the plant bends very quickly.

Control measures. If possible, remove pests with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Then pour dieffenbachia with a systemic insecticide (actar or confidor), again after a week.

Read more about pests of indoor plants in the section "pests"

Personal experience

Dieffenbachia, growing under the ceiling, grows in a bucket, excellent color and freshness of the leaves, no damage or problems. The secret of success is periodically wiping the leaves with a wet sponge and regular spraying, annual top dressing with rotten cow manure or top dressing with fertilizer giant.

In general, it was noticed that Dieffenbachia responds well to feeding with weak organic fertilizers containing nitrogen. From this, the leaves of the plant become large, and acquire a darker color, which does not harm the plant at all.

Who to plant for dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia are quite large plants, often they are grown in very large pots or tubs. In this case, there is a desire to plant some plants in order to cover the surface of the earth in a pot.

Pellonia, pylaea, tradescantia, small-leaved peperomia, elegant collision, ficus cumila, ivy, and sour are suitable as such plants.

Fittonia is not suitable as a neighbor for diffinbachia, no matter how beautiful they look - it will be too dry for them. It is possible to plant chlorophytum, but if only Dieffenbachia has a very spacious pot, then chlorophytum has a rather powerful root system.

If you plant other plants as die-ground to Dieffenbachia, keep in mind that they may be very short of light, because Dieffenbachia often stands on the floor and not even near the window. It is best if you make the backlight at the level of the pot.Good lighting also contributes to the fact that the trunk of Dieffenbachia is more slowly exposed in the lower part.

Dieffenbachia is poisonous

To the question whether Dieffenbachia is poisonous, there is a definite answer: Dieffenbachia is not just poisonous, it has microcrystals sharp as needles in its juice. Therefore, if the juice gets on your skin, do not wipe it, because then you rub them into the skin.

You need to put your hand under a powerful stream of water and wash off the poison. But indoor dieffenbachia is slightly poisonous, irritation from juice does not happen to everyone (mainly people prone to eczema, dermatosis and allergies).

In Dieffenbachia, the shoguin grows in Brazil, as it is called the “silent rod” there, and once its stems were used to punish runaway slaves.

Anyutka & Forget-me-not says: after the burn, I lost the Dieffenbachia juice, which I just erased, my arm hurt for 10 days, no ointments helped (I went to the doctor). Only a strong soda solution relieves itching a little. It feels like a hundred little needles running around the palm of your hand and itching.

Planting and care of Dieffenbachia

  • Bloom: decorative foliage plant.
  • Lighting: bright diffused light for variegated forms, light partial shade for a species with green leaves.
  • Temperature: in summer - 20-30 ˚C, in winter - not lower than 15 ˚C.
  • Watering: plentiful in summer, moderate in winter.
  • Air humidity: increased - 65%. Regular spraying of the leaves is recommended.
  • Feeding: once every three weeks during the period of active growth with lime-free mineral solutions in a concentration that is two times weaker than recommended.
  • Rest period: from September to March.
  • Transfer: from February to May, when the pot becomes crowded.
  • Reproduction: apical and stem cuttings, air layers and, in rare cases, seeds.
  • Pests: aphids, thrips, scale insects, spider mites, mealybugs.
  • Disease bacteriosis, root rot, anthracnose, leaf spotting, fusarium, leaf bronze viruses and mosaics.
  • Properties: plant juice is very toxic and can cause burns.

Dieffenbachia Flower Features

For all Dieffenbachia, a common feature is a thick, juicy stem bearing large, oval leaves. Dieffenbachia leaf is an amazing creation of nature, although breeders have made their contribution to the creation of many varieties and hybrids with different colors of leaves. The dieffenbachia growth point is usually at the top of the shoot, although there are species in which dormant points are at the base of the shoots, and therefore they are able to scrub. The inflorescence in representatives of this genus, like in other Aroid ones, is in the form of an ear, but Dieffenbachia rarely blooms at home. And the flowerers are not interested in the flowering of Dieffenbachia: the Dieffenbachia flowers attract the eye with the beauty of their large variegated leaves.

Dieffenbachia is a peculiar plant. Get acquainted with a number of features that distinguish Dieffenbachia indoor flower:

  • Dieffenbachia is poisonous, therefore, pruning and transplanting the plant must be carried out, observing safety measures,
  • Dieffenbachia grows very quickly - under favorable conditions, it releases a new leaf weekly, but as its trunk grows in the lower part, it is exposed, the plant loses its decorativeness, and it has to be trimmed with subsequent rooting,
  • Dieffenbachia does not tolerate a sharp cooling and drafts and loves moisture,
  • Dieffenbachia does not tolerate lime, so the water for irrigation and spraying must be settled or filtered. You can use rain or boiled water.

These not too attractive properties of Dieffenbachia nevertheless do not detract from its indisputable merits, the most important of which is beauty and impressiveness.

How to care for dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia prefers bright diffused light without direct sunlight, and varieties with variegated leaves need more light than with plain green, otherwise their original color fades. The best place for this rather large plant is a meter or two from a brightly lit window. You can hold Dieffenbachia and not so close to the window, but then you will have to use additional artificial lighting. The temperature in the summertime is preferable from 20 to 30 ºC, in winter - not lower than 15 ºC, and remember - no drafts, or Dieffenbachia will begin to lose leaves.

It is necessary to water Dieffenbachia in the warm season abundantly, but still the soil in the pot should not resemble liquid mud. In the cold season, watering, respectively, is reduced, but the earthen lump should not dry out even in winter. Dieffenbachia air humidity needs to be increased (65%), so spraying and washing the leaves is necessary, and the more often you do this, the better Dieffenbachia will feel.

And for watering, and for wiping, and for spraying, you can use only settled or boiled water. Sometimes, however, it is possible to arrange a plant, if it is small in size, a cold shower, but at the same time water should not fall into the ground.

Care for dieffenbachia involves seasonal top dressing. Dieffenbachia is fertilized, like most other plants, in the spring-summer period, applying liquid mineral or organic fertilizers that do not contain lime, once a decade in half of the recommended dose. By the way, varieties of dieffenbachia with white leaves from nitrogen contained in complex fertilizers lose this varietal property, becoming greenish, therefore they are not fertilized with organics, and mineral fertilizing is applied once every 20 days.

How to trim dieffenbachia

Sometimes you have to remove the damaged Dieffenbachia leaves that cats like to eat, in addition, if the plant grows too fast, you also need to take some measures. In such cases, trimming dieffenbachia is used.

First of all, blot the damaged sheet with a napkin so that when pruning the poisonous juice does not splash into your eyes, then with a clean knife or blade, treated with alcohol to disinfect, cut off the sheet or part of the trunk. The places of cuts need to be blotted again with a napkin that absorbs the juice, and treated with crushed charcoal. Pruning should be carried out with gloves, and the remaining parts of the plant can be used for reproduction.

Dieffenbachia - harm or benefit?

If Dieffenbachia juice gets on the mucous membrane or skin, it will cause burning, redness, swelling and temporary numbness, as with local anesthesia. And if, God forbid, he finds himself in the stomach, then there will almost certainly be excessive salivation, vomiting and paralysis of the vocal cords, so Dieffenbachia should be at home out of the reach of children. If trouble has occurred, rinse your mouth with plenty of water immediately, take activated charcoal, and consult your doctor just in case.

In the homeland of the plant, it is considered a weed, it is mercilessly destroyed, making sure that its remains do not get into livestock feed. Poison was made from it for rodents and insects and used as rods to punish slaves who suffered a week after execution. However, indoor Dieffenbachia is far less toxic than their wild-growing sisters.

On the other hand, Dieffenbachia undoubtedly benefits: NASA data indicate that this plant, along with ficuses and dracenes, cleans the air of toxins such as formaldehyde, trichloroethane, xylene and benzene. Therefore, at home, the best place for Dieffenbachia is your kitchen.

Air lay

Propagation of dieffenbachia by cuttings is a quick and fairly easy process. But how else can Dieffenbachia be propagated? As well as ficus - air layers. It is necessary to make an incision on the stem, cover it with wet moss, wrap the moss with a dark plastic film and tightly fix it with tape, tape or thread above and below the incision. When the roots grow under the film, part of the stem along with the roots and the film is cut, the film is carefully removed, and the layers are planted in the substrate with moss.

Seed propagation of dieffenbachia Used only by professionals for breeding new varieties. Dieffenbachia bush also propagates by dividing the bush.

Insects and diseases of dieffenbachia

Of the insects, dieffenbachia is most often affected by a spider mite, scab, aphid, thrips and mealybugs. Methods of dealing with them are the mechanical removal of pests with a wet sponge soaked in a soap solution, followed by washing off the soap with plenty of water. In case of severe infection, treatment with an actellic or karbofos solution is used in a proportion of 15 drops per liter of water.

Sometimes dieffenbachia is ill with bacteriosis, which is manifested in the appearance on the leaves of watery areas with clear boundaries. Unfortunately, this ailment has a bacterial nature, it is incurable. It can destroy an adult plant and root rot, which first affects the underground part of the plant, and then the ground rot. As soon as you notice areas with a light gray coating, take immediate action: reduce watering, replace the substrate, and treat with systemic fungicide.

Dieffenbachia turns yellow

Very often amateur gardeners ask why Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow. To begin with, if you followed all the rules for caring for a plant, you would not have to find out why Dieffenbachia turns yellow, since proper care makes the plant invulnerable to diseases and pests. But in life, anything happens, so let's clarify this issue.

First of all, in such cases, the suspicion falls on a violation of the temperature regime: either the room is too cold, or the plant was standing in a draft. A possible cause is also watering the plant with too hard water or lack of nutrients in the soil. In dieffenbachia, leaves also turn yellow due to damage by root rot.

Dieffenbachia dries

Often our readers also ask why Dieffenbachia dries. If the lower leaves dry, turn yellow and fall, then this is a natural process, which, unfortunately, cannot be prevented, and if the trunk is very bare, then it is time to rejuvenate Dieffenbachia by means of cuttings. But if young leaves dry, then the reason for this is most likely insufficient watering for a long time, cold air or drafts.

Dieffenbachia will fade

If the leaves are down and the substrate is dry, then you rarely water the plant, but if the substrate is wet and the leaves are down, check the roots for rot. If it is found, clean the roots of the earth, remove the rotten areas with a sharp sterile instrument, treat the wounds with crushed coal or ground cinnamon, and transplant dieffenbachia into a new soil. We will have to reconsider the mode of hydration of the plant in the direction of reducing the amount of moisture or frequency of watering.

Types and varieties of Dieffenbachia

The most common species in the culture are Dieffenbachia spotted (Dieffenbachia maculata) and dieffenbachia variegated, or colorized (Dieffenbachia picta) - plants with a large succulent stem and elongated oval leaf plates with obvious venation, reaching a width of 12 cm and a length of up to half a meter. Their bright green leaves are streaked with white spots and stripes. They differ among themselves in that the dieffenbachia mottled grows up to two meters in height, and the dieffenbachia spotted does not exceed a meter, but its leaves are slightly larger in size and they are more pointed at the apex. It was Dieffenbachia that was spotted and became the basis for most varieties and hybrids bred by breeders. Here are some of the most popular varieties of Dieffenbachia spotted in the culture:

  • variety "Vesuvio" - an elegant medium-sized plant with narrow, delicate white leaves and green specks on white petioles,
  • Dieffenbachia "Camilla" - one of the most hardy bushy varieties, which is why it has earned popularity among amateurs. Lanceolate creamy white leaves are circled around the edge with a light green rim. Young leaves have a greenish tint,
  • Dieffenbachia "Kompakta" - a neat dense bush with green leaves with light specks along the central vein.

Dieffenbachia is lovely or sweet (Dieffenbachia amoena)

Flower lovers like it for its unpretentiousness and excellent adaptability to home conditions, because it tolerates dry air and the proximity of heating appliances better than other types. In addition, its decorative qualities are beyond criticism: a height of one and a half meters, large dark green oval leaves up to 60 cm long with white stripes along all the veins.

Dieffenbachia Seguina

Which amateurs often confuse with spotted dieffenbachia, have wider - up to 16 cm - leaves with fewer lateral veins than Dieffenbachia spotted. This species also produced many varieties and hybrids, for example, Tropic Snow - a cultivar that never goes out of fashion with the correct pattern on leaves formed by yellow spots, while the central vein and the edges of the leaves remain dark green.


She feels great on a bright window, but it is worth considering that Dieffenbachia does not like the direct rays of the sun. If the open balcony is located on the south side, then this plant should not be put there for the summer.

In the case when he will not get light, his stem will stretch as soon as possible and will become very brittle and very thin, and only a few sheets will flaunt at the top.

How to water

When the plant begins to grow actively, it should be watered abundantly. However, in winter, watering is required to be significantly reduced. Waterlogging should not be allowed. Watering is carried out only after the soil dries out no less than a couple of centimeters deep. To check, you can use the soil moisture meter or check with your finger.

What should be the humidity

Humidity in the room where this plant is located should be high enough. The thing is that in the homeland of Dieffenbachia there is always high humidity. In this regard, the leaves should be sprayed as often as possible with plain clean water, and this especially applies to winter, when the air is greatly dried by heating appliances and batteries. A sign that the humidity is lower than necessary is the dry edges of the leaves.

Transplant Features

A transplant is carried out in the spring months and only if necessary. A mixture of sand, peat, leafy soil and humus is prepared in advance. And you can take the universal soil for deciduous plants. Take a larger pot of the previous one, and deepen the stem during transplanting. This will contribute to the growth of new roots.

Carefully remove the earthen lump from the old pot. Carefully inspect the roots. If they are absolutely healthy, then they, together with the old soil, can be placed in a pot. Do not forget about the drainage layer. To do this, pour a bit of expanded clay on the bottom. Then it will be necessary to pour a small amount of fresh soil, and add it to the sides of the plant, slightly compacting. It should be borne in mind that the soil must be moistened (not wet) during transplantation. Very often, damaged roots rot. Add a rooting preparation of your choice to the water when watering (Kornerost, Heteroauxin, Kornevin, Zircon).

In the event that there are rotten roots, then they should be carefully removed during transplantation, after shaking off the soil. Sprinkle the slices with powder made from activated carbon. You can wait until they dry. After this, the plant can be planted in a new pot.

A spider mite may appear on Dieffenbachia (there is a spider web on stems and leaves), a mock shield or scab (the appearance of brown plaques with sticky secretions), and also a mealy mite (a white cotton fluff appears).

Dilute the actellik, taking 1-2 grams of the drug per liter of water, and treat the plant with it. Soap solution and warm washing are also suitable.

A disease such as rot is very common among dieffenbachies.And it arises due to abundant watering. In the case when the plant begins to wilt, leaves fall, and the soil does not dry out even with occasional watering - this is an occasion to check the root system for rot. Remove damaged ground from roots and then rot. Sprinkle the slices with activated carbon powder (cinnamon or potassium manganese).

Spill new soil with a small amount of a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Reduce the amount of watering, and you need to produce them only after the top layer of soil dries for a couple of centimeters.

Motley, or colorized (Dieffenbachia picta)

This is one of the most popular species in home floriculture. Many like him for their large dimensions. Adult plants easily grow to a height of 2 meters. It seems that these plants have just come down from a photograph of a rainforest. Effect and greenery of the plant: bright green leaves, shaped like an oval, are decorated with an intricate pattern of their stripes and specks of white color. Their sheet plate is long - about 40 cm or more, and wide - 15 cm.

Spotted or painted (Dieffenbachia maculata)

This variety is not far behind in popularity from Dieffenbachia painted. It differs from it in height - it is more stunted, its height does not exceed a meter. This is an attractive ornamental plant that will bring vibrant exotic colors to any room, whether it be a room or an office. Its spreading oblong leaves, slightly pointed at the tips, reach a length of 45-50 cm, and their width is not more than 13 cm. Asymmetrical ornament flaunts on their surface: many white ones are scattered randomly on a green background (it can be dark or light). and yellow spots, and more than a dozen lateral veins.

Leopold (Dieffenbachia leipoldii Bull)

Rarely found in amateur floriculture, a variety from the jungle of Costa Rica, which has a unique exotic appearance. A distinctive feature of Leopold is a very short (5 cm) and thick (2 cm) trunk. The broad leaves of the elliptical shape are painted in dark green, the middle vein stands out due to the white color. Petioles are so short that it is difficult to make out, pale green, with purple spots.

Lovely or Pleasant (Dieffenbachia amoena)

Another species, extremely unthinkable in the conditions of the house. Unlike its more demanding relatives, it tolerates a lack of moisture, so its attractiveness will not suffer at all in the winter when the heating is on. Just make sure that the soil does not dry out. Florists like it for its height - up to 1.5 meters, and wide - up to 60 cm dark green leaves, which are pierced by veins with white stripes.

Baumann (Dieffenbachia bowmannii)

An attractive variegated species that differs from other indoor Dieffenbachia by unusually large leaves, the length of which, with proper care and the creation of suitable conditions, reaches 70–80 cm. This is a record among these plants grown at home. The color of the leaf plate is dark green with small bright spots.

Dieffenbachia Oerstedii (Dieffenbachia oerstedii)

A view with plain green leaves of a heart-shaped or pointed shape with a distinct bright central vein. The length of the leaves is 30-35 cm. The most famous hybrid of this species is the Green Magic, a dense bush of small size with an unusual color of leaves: they are dark bluish-green in color with a white central vein. There is a form with small light specks on a leaf plate.

Dieffenbachia - signs

People who are used to looking for an explanation of their problems and troubles by planetary standing, horoscopes and some kind of mystical laws often ask what the espeneric sense threatens with the appearance of Dieffenbachia in the house. With this question it is better to turn to a fortuneteller, psychic or astrologer, but there are a couple who will take about Dieffenbachia, which many know about. So, for those who do not accept these: they say that Dieffenbachia, along with hibiscus, is the strongest “husband”. That in families growing this flower in their home, children are not born, because men lose the ability to conceive. And generally lose their ability to be men.

I could refute these stories by many examples, but it is unlikely that people who believe in signs will listen to me. They also say that you cannot keep Dieffenbachia in the bedroom, because it absorbs oxygen. To this I can answer that such nonsense is contrary to the law of photosynthesis and common sense. In addition, if you are looking for a bad sign or bad omen in everything, you are attracting problems, unhappiness and other negatives. Dieffenbachia is just a beautiful plant, and this is exactly what you need to relate to it. Pay attention to cats: they are happy to eat the leaves of Dieffenbachia, because for them it is just an anthelmintic.


Dieffenbachia Gallery